Tonia’s modern Appalachian cornpone

“You can put in baking powder. You can put in cracklings. You can even add jalapenos and bake it in a muffin tin. But whatever you do, don’t you dare put sugar in my cornbread!” — I used to say, and write, that with pride. Then two things changed. One: Michael Twitty of “The Cooking…

Holiday cooking the lard way

By Tonia Moxley CHRISTIANSBURG, Va. – Surely two 40-plus women enjoying a glass of red wine and some Trader Joe’s cocoa truffles late on a Saturday should not giggle so loudly. But the tinkling sound of two dozen canning jars full of hot, honey-yellow lard sealing themselves sent us into paroxysms. “Oh, there went another one….

Wilt sallet: Rediscovering a once-proud mountain tradition

By Tonia Moxley The Roanoke Times May 31, 2006 It’s a d— shame that every food good for the Appalachian soul is bad for the heart. Creamy sausage gravy over buttery biscuits. Fried chicken. Buttermilk and cornbread. Chicken livers and onions cooked in butter. And wilt sallet. I know that to those who didn’t grow…